Friday, April 22, 2016

Mini USB Fridge At home Diy



Now that we're seeing those 12 volt camper coolers turning up at garage sales and thrift stores (I found one for $2.50), here's a neat little idea for turning it into a customizable mini-fridge powered by a USB port!

Step 1: Taking out the Peltier/Heatsink Unit

You'll basically just need a phillips head screwdriver and thin socket or needlenose pliers to take apart the heatsink and fans, which will allow you to remove the unit from the cooler. Now, you might ask why you'd want to do this and not just use the cooler. The answer is because most of the time when you find one of these the case will be cracked and the cord is missing, but that's not a problem...

Step 2: The Peltier unit and Clean Up

Sandwiched in between the heatsinks, you'll find the Peltier unit, which loks about the same size and thickness as a computer CPU. In between the top and bottom layer, you'll see the special substrates that have the unique properties that make the Peltier unit cool on one side while heating the other when an electrical current is applied. There will, in some cases, be spray foam insulation in between the two heatsinks, which is very easily broken away with just your fingers. You can safely remove the peltier unit from the other heatsink, as it will be held only by thermal compound. Once you've cleaned up the top and bottom heatsinks, place the peltier back in between the two heatsinks and retighten the bolts. If you have any thermal paste left over from putting together your own PC, you can optionally clean the old paste away and reapply new paste to each heatsink just as you would on a CPU heatsink/fan assembly before attaching it to a CPU.

Step 3: Attch a USB Cable

Peltier units are designed to operate at a voltage between 3-12 volts, and the 5 volts from your USB port work just fine. Although the amperage could ideally be higher, the 500 mw output is acceptable. Cut away the end of an old USB cable (or pick up a cheapy) and strip back a couple of inches of the plastic covering. Inside you will find 4 wires, usually within a braided or thin aluminum shield. The wire colors will be white, green, red, and black. Trim back the white and green wires, strip off a small bit of the black and red wires, and solder them to the red and black wires of the peltier unit. Wrap with electrical tape or use heatshrink tubing. If you need information on correct soldering procedure or the use of heatshrink tubing, there are many excellent Instructables that will gve you all the information you need, simply do a search!

Optionally, you can attach a 1K limiting resister in between the red and black wires, although you are quite safe at the voltage and mA to not really need one.

Now, plug in your USB cable to a USB port on your PC, and within about 30 seconds you will be able to feel one heatsink become very cool while the other becomes warm. Note which heatsink becomes cool, as that's what we'll want to encase inside the mini fridge.

Step 4: Building the Fridge!

I used foamboard because of its ease in cutting with an xacto knife and its insular properties, and basically built a box around the heatsink using a hot glue gun to attach the sides and top, and then ran a line of hot glue along the seams to ensure an airtight compartment. The bottom piece is cut into two halves, with a square section cut out in the center to make room for the peltier unit. I then glued the two halves to the underside of the cooling heatsink, then glued the left, back, and right sides of the fridge, and finally the top. See the diagram below:

Step 5: Final Assembly and Extra Touches

I used white plastic tape to hinge the door, although you could certainly use small hinges from a hardware store and simply glue them into place with the door fit into the front for proper opening and closing. I glued small lengths of foamboard inside the fridge assembly and then glued cut pieces of a flexible refridgerator magnet on both the inside of the door and the foamboard lengths to make a magnetic "catch" to hold the door closed. I also threw in a battery powered White LED and used a leaf switch to turn the light on when the door was open. I ran the wiring of the leaf switch along the inside and through a small hole in the back to attach to the AA battery holder glued to the outside back of the fridge, then used white plastic tape along the wire run, attaching it to the interior side.

For the handle I used a cheap hardware store drawer pull.

As you can see by the door, I wanted this to look like a store "cooler" that you see for drinks, so I cut a window and hot glued a section of plexiglass in the window.

Step 6: The Final Result

As you can see by the pictures, this cooler will hold a large bottled water, or a tall 20 oz plastic soda bottle, although my drink of choice is a Starbucks Vanilla Frappucino! The cooler will keep drinks at about 45-50 degrees and works best when your drink is already cold for obvious reasons. Optionally, you could use a 1 amp 7.5 volt DC adapter, which will lower the temperature significantly without making the lower heatsink too hot for placement on regular surfaces. In this instance, I would strongly recommend that you add the 1K limiting resistor in order to keep the DC adapter from becoming hot.

Step 7: Tricking it out!



Now, add graphics from your favorite game or website and make your mini-fridge a one of a kind creation. I printed out on a sheet of inkjet transparency film to create the see through graphics you see here. Have fun, and watch the video for the nice ending... ;)

USB COOLER AT HOME WITH CD/DVD DRIVE

An easy step to step Tutorial explaining how you can build an "USB Cooling Fan" for your notebook/desktop/whatever from an old or broken cd-rom drive. Enjoy.

You can follow that Instructable or just watch the video version:

Step 1: Dismantle the drive

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dismantle the (broken) cd/dvd player. You'll find a lot of interesting parts (e.g. the lens), but in this tutorial we need just one of the motors (usually are 2, and the damage is somewhere else, so they works). Take it out.

NOTE: every drive is different "inside", so it's a bit useless show you where is located. But you can see the picture to know what you are looking for.

Step 2: making of the blades

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Take the empty package and get out the transparent cd.
Mark 8 identical cloves on the "cd", then cut them with a cutter.

Step 3: mount the blades

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Mark the cork where you'll put the blades.
Make a small hole in the bottom. Cut off 1/3 in height and hack enough space for the blades.
Insert the blades (4 or 8) and secure them with super-glue. Let it dry :)

Step 4: prepare the usb cable

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Take the usb cable and cut it to the desired lenght, then peel it out leaving only the RED and the BLACK wires (isolate the other 2).

Step 5: insert the wires into the sheath

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 cut 3 iron wires as long as the cable
tie the wires (3 irons +2 from the usb) to a longer iron wire threaded in the sheath.
Pull the longer iron wire from the other side of the sheath, in order to make slip inside all the wires.

Step 6: fix the motor

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Fix the motor to the cable and solder the usb wires. Isolate all with tape.

Step 7: fix the cork to the motor

Glue the motor to the cork and let it dry.

Step 8: test it..!

Test it... IT WORKS!

you can watch a video clip showing this cool Usb Fan here:


NOTE: thank to the iron wires, you can model the cable to any shape ;)

THANK YOU!

Build a Discreet USB Air Conditioner

Last summer, the office AC stopped working. This is Los Angeles and outside temperatures were over 100 degrees. I had to do something to cope with the heat. Then I had an Eureka moment. I can make my own AC unit. But the problem was how can I use a homemade ice powered AC unit without looking like a total idiot at the office? I thought to myself, if I was to make a home made ice powered AC unit, it needs to be: portable, discreet and easy to maintain.  Thus, I came up with the idea of using a Brita Pitcher as the housing for my home made AC unit. It's portable. I can just pick it up by the handle and take it where ever i need it.  It's discreet. The Brita Pitcher on my desk just looks like a Brita Pitcher. Not some sort of wacky contraption on my desk. And finally, its easy to maintain.  When I'm done using the Brita Pitcher AC unit, I can just pour out the icy water at the sink. I can also wrap up the power cable inside the top compartment of the pitcher.

Best of all, once I no longer need the AC unit, i can just stick in a new Brita Filter and use the pitcher like any old Brita Pitcher to filter water.

Step 1: Supply List


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 To do this project, you will need:

Old Brita Pitcher (not Pur)
Computer fan that can fit into the top compartment of the Brita Pitcher
Power source (battery pack, 12v computer source, USB)
2 Paper Clips
4-5 Index Cards
Philips Screwdriver
Small Pliers
Wire Stripper
Spare molex connector (optional)
Scotch tape

Step 2: Wiring the Fan

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 For this project, I will be powering the fan with USB power.  You could tap into your computer's 12v power and also power the fan.  Using the wire stripper, cut off the end of the USB cable (USB B) that doesn't plug into your computer.  Strip about 1in off the red and black wires on the usb cable.  Separate the red and black wires. Wire the red and black wires to a male molex connector. Cover each expose wire with electrical tape. You could solder the wires too.  Make sure the wires correspond to the polarity of the wires coming out of the fan. Also make sure the male molex connector plugs in correctly to the female connector coming out of the fan.

Alternative: instead of wiring the usb cable to the molex connector, you could wire the usb cable directly into the fan.  However, I am using a molex connector so i can preserve the fan and use it for future projects.

Step 3: Building the Index Card Structure for the Fan Part 1

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Test your fan.  Note which direction the air is blowing towards. For this project, the air will need to blow down into the pitcher from the top of the pitcher. Have your fan pointing downwards. Lay down the fan onto your desk or working surface. The topside is the air intake side and the bottom side will be where the air exits into the pitcher. Now unplug the molex connectors.

Lay down 4 sheets of index cards length wise along the edge of the topside of the fan. Do not block the fan's air flow. The cards will overlap each other. Look at the pictures for reference. Tape the index cards together. Poke holes on the index cards where the fan screw holes are located. Insert and tighten the screws.  The screws should be holding the index cards in place now.

Step 4: Building the Index Card Structure for the Fan Part 2

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
With the fan facing upside down (bottom side facing up).  Fold up the index cards to form the stand for the fan. It should look like a box  with an open view of the fan.  If you know how to gift wrap a box, this should be fairly easy. If not, look at my pictures. Straighten out two paper clips. Then bend a 90 degree angle at the middle of each clip. Tape the paper clips along the edge of the index card fan stand.  The paper clips will reinforce the stand's structure.


Step 5: Install the Fan Structure into the Brita Pitcher

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Make sure you do not have a filter in the Pitcher.  Drain and dry the pitcher. Attach the USB cable to the fan. Wrap the USB cable around the fan structure.  Insert the the fan structure into the top compartment of the Brita Pitcher. Back to why you should not use the Pur pitchers. The Brita pitcher provides a tube that extends down towards the middle of the pitcher.  This will allow the fan to channel air towards the ice. Pur pitchers do not have this tube, thus i find the air is cooled less effectively.

Next, we need to build a hood or air duct to direct the air.  Remove the little flap where the water is poured out of the pitcher. Using an index card, fold up 1 cm for 3 of the sides (1 lengthwise, 2 width-wise) . Please look at the pictures for reference. Cut a slit in the middle of the 2 shorter sides. This will form the slot for the pitcher lip. Now the air will blow towards what ever direction you point the pitcher.

Step 6: Toss in the Ice and Plug in the Fan

Now, all you have to do is toss in some ice and plug in the fan. Now you're ready for a cool breeze. The fan is not too strong if you are using a 5v power supply, thats why i said breeze.  Check out the last step for ways to pump up the fan speed.

Step 7: Clean Up and Final Thoughts.

Once you are done using the Brita AC Unit, just unplug the fan and pour out the icy water into the sink... or























a friend =). No mess. No clumsiness. Easy to handle. Easy to store. Almost fully nondestructive. Now all you have to do is dry the pitcher and wrap the usb cable back into the top compartment. When you actually want to use the Brita Pitcher as a water filter, just flush out the top compartment and install a fresh water filter.

Tips and Alternatives:
You could install a power switch.
Instead of 5v USB power, you could use a battery pack or another higher power source. I have some pics of my 12v battery pack with and without a switch.
If you have a big enough pitcher, you could use 2 fans

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